Saturday, July 2, 2016

St. Peter Line to St. Petersburg, Russia


I have combed the internet for information on this new(ish) visa-free travel to Russia, and I really couldn't find any step-by-step directions for how to do it.  Therefore, I had to take one for the team and try it.  

What you need to know about Visa-Free travel to Russia - 
1. This advice applies primarily to US citizens, but to my knowledge the same is true for UK, EU, Australian and Canadians as well.  
2. In order to travel to Russia, you have three options:
  1. Obtain a Tourist Visa by mailing off paperwork, including a letter of invitation from a Russian organization and paying a large fee (Most tour companies will take care of this letter of invitation and helping with the paperwork if you choose to go this route)
  2. Go on a cruise ship.  With this option, you are REQUIRED to purchase the shore excursion and be with your guide at all times.
  3. Take the St. Peter Line "ferry," which allows you 72 hours in Russia with no Visa.  This is the option that I'll be covering today.
3. This Visa-free option is something that the Russian Federation is simply trying out.  It could go away at any time, unannounced.  When you make your plans, be prepared to book a last-minute hotel in Helsinki or Tallinn instead if the Visa-free rule is revoked.
4. You are allowed a maximum of 72 hours in Russia.  If you overstay, or try to leave by a different route other than the St. Peter Line, you can (and probably will)  be arrested and fined.  You will be tempted to stay longer, because there is simply that much to see.  If you feel this way, go back to 2.1 and get the Visa to stay as long as you need. 
5. You do not have to be escorted, regardless of what the paperwork says.  However, in order to make it "legal," you are required to buy the tour that St. Peter Line offers.  It's not a tour, just simply a round-trip bus into St. Petersburg from the ferry terminal.
6. St. Peter Line is NOT A CRUISE SHIP.  Go ahead and accept this.  It's not going to be as clean nor offer the amenities that a major cruise liner would offer.  When I read the reviews about it on TripAdvisor, I just rolled on the floor laughing at how many people were trying to compare it to a cruise ship.  This ship is transportation with a bed.  If you set your expectations appropriately, you won't be disappointed!

So, how do you do all of this?

STEP 1-
Make your reservations early.  St. Peter Line has great discounts in the rates if you book at least a month in advance.  St. Peter Line runs from Helsinki, Stockholm, and Tallinn to St. Petersburg.  Look at the schedule to find a route that fits your needs.  I do not recommend going all the way from Stockholm.  That is a really long way on a ship that has very little to do on board.  Plus, if you arrive in Helsinki, you can get to the airport and fly to Stockholm faster than waiting for the ship (takes 2 days to get there from St. Petersburg).  I recommend booking a pre-night in Helsinki or Tallinn, so that you can store your luggage at the hotel and explore that city during the day.  

STEP 2-
Book St. Peter Line
1. This is the English landing page.  Click book now.
2. Click FERRY TRIP. 
3. Choose your route.  You will note that St. Peter Line goes to Helsinki a lot more than to Tallinn.  Tallinn is a 50 minute ride from Helsinki, and if you go round trip from Helsinki, you can store your luggage at the Ferry Terminal.  Be sure that your stay in SPB is less than 72 hours.  I have been on both ships, the Princess Maria and Princess Anastasia.  The Anastasia seems a little newer and nicer, but not so drastic as to plan around it.
4. Choose your cabin.  Be careful and wise about this.  Just remember, the window doesn't open in the premium cabins... AND, if you're traveling in the middle of summer, it won't be dark until midnight.  The main difference isn't reached until you book the luxury ones, which I have never stayed in.
5. Choose your available promotions.  Click add and remove on all of them until the price is the lowest.  This is a strange and illogical website feature.  
6.  Choose your meals.  You are NOT allowed to bring any food or drink on board, so bear that in mind when you book your meals.  Even your granola bars will be confiscated.  I was able to eat in the coffeeshop for under €10 for dinner in Helsinki.  For breakfast, I sprung for the Breakfast Deluxe at €16.74.  While it is true that it is as expensive as a hotel breakfast, I found it to be worthwhile.  The regular breakfast is already €11.16, and the upgrade to the Deluxe includes an omelette station, better coffee, and better buffet in general.  I had a hard time filling up on the "regular" breakfast.  The Deluxe kept me full until 2 in the afternoon.  The pre-paid meals will come with a voucher that you collect when you check in for the Ferry.  You simply hand them over and go in.  This is a huge time-saver when arriving in St. Petersburg, vs. having to handle a cash transaction before you can eat.  Breakfast begins at 6 a.m., even though the arrival is 8:30, giving you plenty of time to eat and still be among the first off the ship.
7. Choose your extras.  You are required to have the "City Bus Tour," which, again, is just simply transportation to the city.  
8. Choose a hotel.  You are NOT required to book your hotel through St. Peter Line.  You can do Air BnB or Hotels.com or whatever you are comfortable with.
9. Choose a land program.  You are also NOT required to book one of their land programs.  The price is good, and if you're just wanting to see things in a hurry, you probably can't go wrong.  There are lots of local companies that specialize in tours for Visa-free people, so I would recommend finding one that has the program you want.
10. Create a Log in.  It's not required, but I think that it's advisable so that you can go back into your booking later and look at it.  You may want to call your credit card before the transaction, because they seem to think an online transaction to Russia is a questionable charge. 

STEP 3-
Prepping for the ship.
I recommend putting your large bags in storage at your hotel in Helsinki, or, if they won't do it, there are lockers available in the Ferry Terminal for €4 per day which will hold a suitcase.  There aren't very many, so, be early to the terminal if you need this service.  You will also want to be aware that there is no ramp or elevator when arriving in St. Petersburg, so whatever bag you bring you must be able to carry up and down a flight of stairs.  No food or drink is allowed on the ship, but Euros are accepted as payment.
STEP 4-
Arrival at the ship.
Be EARLY.
When you check in for the ship, it will be very chaotic.  A lot of tour companies use this Visa-free loophole to take budget tourists to Russia for a day.  There will be hundreds of them in the check-in and passport check areas. You will have to go through Finnish passport control exiting Helsinki, and they are fairly meticulous, so you will need some time.  It takes approximately 45-60 minutes to board.
STEP 5-
On board.  I had dinner in the coffee shop and went to bed as early as possible.  Your time in St. Petersburg is very limited, so you will want to maximize every minute.  You can read reviews of the ship online ad nauseum, but you will want to simply get some rest.  The pool and gym facilities are not worth the price, and you will want to rest.  The pictures are a standard B2 cabin on Princess Anastasia.




 As you can see, it's pretty basic.  Towels and linens are provided, but I wouldn't count on being able to get extras during your trip.

STEP 6-
Arrival in Russia.  It's very chaotic.  If you truly want to be first off the ship, I would be waiting in the disembarkation area by 8:00.  The tour group leaders will probably have their groups there as well that early.  You do have one advantage, however.  Usually their group leaders will pull them aside on shore to go through passport control together.  You will get a stamp, but no Visa.  You will also need to keep your departure card from St. Peter Line and the Arrival card issued by Russian Passport Control.  Keep it all in your passport, and keep your passport in a safe place.  At this point, if you've booked a tour, maybe you're lucky enough to have your guide meet you at the terminal.  This way, you can skip the city bus ride and begin seeing things immediately! 

STEP 7-
Your time in Russia.  Enjoy it.  This is still a very rare opportunity to look into a very rich culture that has been relatively inaccessible to the Western world for many years.  St. Petersburg is a wonderful neoclassical city with much to see and do.  Be sure to do a canal cruise and see the Hermitage.  Consider going to a concert or Ballet in the evening (but book in advance online).  Try some Russian food - especially the pancakes.  Enjoy your peak into their world for a couple of days.  You will probably want to come back and get the visa in the future, but with a limited window of opportunity, you may want to enjoy this less-expensive option to get your first taste of Russia.

I hope this article is helpful for you, and if you have done this, or are thinking of doing this, please leave some comments, and I'll be happy to help in any way I can.  Bon voyage!