Monday, April 29, 2019

Tokyo, Japan Primer

Ohayogozaimasu!

Today, I'd like to introduce you to another country that's very dear to me, Nippon, or Japan! Japan is an archipelago of 6,852 islands.  It is one of the first places in the northern hemisphere to see the new day, hence it's name is the "Land of the Rising Sun."  Depending on where you stop counting, Tokyo's metropolitan area is the largest in the
world, encompassing more than 35 million people (Tokyo proper is the 6th largest city in the world).  Japan has the world's highest life expectancy, which for women is 87, and men is 80 (compared to the USA, women 81, men 76).  There might be something to the rice and raw fish, after all... Excuse me while I get some more green tea.  The Japanese culture is also one of resilience, but also of tradition meets progression.  We are speaking of course, of the troubled 20th century.  Japan has fared very well in its recovery.  Something quite charming is their adherence to tradition.  As a westerner, I really love watching businessmen say goodbye and bowing and raising in their pecking order.  Naturally, the most senior will always be the first to come up, and if he decides to bow again, they begin the entire ritual again.  Sometimes, it can take 3, 4, or 5 bows for them to all say goodbye!  

Before I go off on another tangent, let's cover the basics of visiting Japan.  There are two main airports in Tokyo, Narita (NRT) and Haneda (HND).  Both are very modern and connected.  As of this writing, Japan does not require a Visa from US travelers.  Arrival is fairly straight-forward, except for the fact that it is a very long flight.  I would recommend arriving as late in the day as possible.  Spend the evening walking to keep from falling asleep too early, then get to bed at 8 or 9 p.m. to be rested for the next day.

Money... This is a tricky one!  As a savvy traveler, I carry debit cards from 4 different banks.  Japan is the only place that I have ever had trouble getting cash from an ATM.  The ATM machines at the airport do work with US cards, however, the banks throughout Tokyo often do not.  Your best exchange rate is always through an ATM, but you may want to carry some crisp US Dollars to have just in case.  The most reliable ATM's within the cities are the post offices.  Some blogs will say to use the machines at 7/11, but, none of my bank cards worked there.  For general purposes, however, a US credit card can be used at most stores and restaurants.  



Food... Take the ideas you have about Japanese food and forget them!  There are some things that we replicate well in other countries, and there are some that we do not.  Japanese food is half of the experience of traveling to Japan.  I find the options to be plentiful and reasonably priced.  It is common for Western travelers to be a little mystified at some of the offerings.  I recommend knowing your allergies well, and perhaps making a little card that says "Allergies:Shellfish, etc, etc" in Japanese to show to your wait staff.  This will simplify some of the choices, and, even if the food is not what you are used to, at least you won't break out in hives during your vacation!  One of my favorites is to get a Bento, which is simply like a lunch box.  These are offered in most Japanese restaurants in the US and Canada, but the contents are different in Japan.  You won't find many California roll's wrapped up in them.  The positive side of this is that even if you don't like the whole thing, you will have multiple options you can eat and try.  Write down what you like from each box for future reference.  

I can't talk about food without talking about Chopsticks... Here is your crash course on chopstick rules.  Remember, Japan is very traditional.  Eating incorrectly with chopsticks is on par with sticking your spoon to your nose at a fine restaurant.

1.  When you open your disposable chopsticks, don't rub them together!  I know, you see this on TV all the time.  It's very rude.
2. When not using your chopsticks, always lay them parallel, with the point to the left.
3. When sharing common plates, use the back end of the chopsticks (which has not been in your mouth)  to take food from the common plate.  Set the food on your plate and switch your chopsticks to the other side before taking that bite.
4. Don't impale anything. 
5. Do not store your chopsticks stabbed into your rice.  This is reminiscent of funeral traditions in Japan, and is very rude.  
6. Don't pass food on chopsticks.  If you must share something with your neighbor, set the food on their plate, not chopstick-to-chopstick.
7.  Practice before you go!  You will be very hungry in Japan if you cannot learn to use chopsticks.  So, get some takeout from your favorite Asian restaurant and practice in the privacy of your own home!



Next on the agenda, how to use the bathroom!  No, really!  Take comfort in knowing that most restrooms have Western style toilets.  By the way, that is how we politely say it - everything you are used to is termed "Western." However, you may once in a while encounter a very odd looking bathtub in the floor of a public restroom.  See the instructional sign?  There ya go.  Now, those "Western" toilets can also be very different.  Tons of buttons and switches.  Feel free to try them all out in your hotel room, but avoid going too crazy in a public space, as you might screech a little from the surprise of pushing some of those buttons!  One of my hotels had a heated seat with wash, rinse, and who knows what some of those other buttons do features!



As Tevye would remind us all, TRADITION!  Take time to really understand, and don't be in too much of a rush- even from the simplicity of seeing the hotel maids turn my shoes around every single day.  As an American, I take my shoes off and face them into the wall for ease of putting them back on.  Japanese would face the toe toward the door.  If you are lucky enough to visit a home, you may even be offered a different set of slippers to wear in their house, and a different set for using the restroom!  Remember when traveling to a new place that their culture may not have developed in the same way as your own.  You will notice instantly that the Japanese culture is much quieter than the American culture.  Tokyo is very quiet as compared to New York.  Especially on the metro (subway).  When in doubt, always hang back a little and observe.  You are on vacation, after all.  You are their guest observing their culture.  

 There is so much more to say, and I will continue posting about Japan.  I hope you have enjoyed this start.  Happy travels!  Sayonara!