Ich bin ein Berliner

Ich bin ein Berliner - Probably the most famous Kennedy quote, and not even in English.  You may have heard this translated as "I am a doughnut." This is true!  However, it is also not true.  A certain doughnut is called a Berliner because it is from Berlin, just as a Berliner is a person from Berlin.  Fun story.  No city truly exemplifies a modern rebirth like Berlin.  I must admit... Berlin was never very high on my list of places to go.  However, from my first visit onward, it has really captured me in a very unique way.  From the familiar sights, such as the Berlin wall, the old Soviet TV tower, the Brandenburg Gate, and of course the Reichstag, Berlin has much to offer not just in the way of Cold War sights, but also a lot culturally.  From a touristic standpoint, it is still one of the least expensive major cities in Europe, and there is much to see.  Let's start with the basics.

Getting there - Berlin is very accessible from overseas, as well as the rest of Europe.  There are two major airports currently, with another on the way.  TXL and SXF will be your search codes when looking for the lowest fares.  Both are very easily connected to the city by public transportation.  

Public transportation is very easy in Berlin.  I like sticking to the S-bahn and U-bahn trains, supplemented by the occasional bus when necessary.  The simplest way to navigate purchase your metro tickets is by buying a day pass (Tageskarte), which currently will run you approximately €6-7 depending on which zones you stay within (A,B,C).  Zone C is mainly needed for airports and Sachsenhausen concentration camp.  Also, if you are with a group of up to 5 people, you can buy a Kleingruppenkarte (small group ticket) which will allow all 5 to travel all day for a fixed price (approximately €15 Euros last time I was there).  After purchasing your ticket, you will need to validate it one time on the yellow machines on the platform.  Then, stow the ticket in a safe place.  You will only need to show it if asked by a ticket inspector.  Otherwise, public transportation has no turnstiles, as it is an honor system.

Eating in Berlin is also very easy.  There are many places offering the usual international chain food.  Something you must try is Currywurst.  It is essentially a sausage diced and covered in a curry gravy.  Nice and heavy street food.  It's also cheap enough to fill up on!  There is also fine dining available in any major center of town, especially near the Museum Island and along Unter den Linden.  

Sleeping in Berlin is also quite inexpensive.  I like staying near Alexanderplatz or in the Mitte neighborhood.  These offer options that are very inexpensive and accessible to my recommended sights.  

Some sights to see, in no particular order follow.  Please note, I could spend months writing about sights in Berlin.  So, this is by no means a complete list.  If you're interested in more, or planning a trip to Berlin, please leave me a comment, and I'll move it up my priority list.

East side gallery - see the first photo.  This is the largest remaining stretch of the wall, and now an outdoor ar gallery.  The murals you see were painted by artists from all over the world.  Many of the paintings are very potent to the history of Berlin.  Take the S-Bahn to Ostbahnhof to visit it.  Grab a banana from a convenience store to snack on while you walk this stretch of the wall, remembering that folks isolated by this wall couldn't get this exotic fruit (East Berliners are obsesses with bananas now!). 

Pergamon Museum and Ishtar Gate - This museum surprised me. I had read about the very amaing Greek Pergamon Alter reconstructed in this museum.  What I had not read about was the Ishtar Gate, which was constructed in 575 B.C. by King Nebuchadnezzar II in the city of Babylon, and now reconstructed in Berlin for your enjoyment.  This, to me, was one of the most amazing pieces I have ever seen, and such an interesting look into an ancient culture. 

The Reichstag - Or the parliament of Germany is a very interesting visit.  Reserve your tickets to visit the roof months in advance online at bundestag.de. You will be glad you did.  The building itself suffered a huge fire, which was conveniently blamed on those that opposed Hitler.  It provided just one other means for him to seize power.  The new dome is constructed of glass, a symbol that the new government should be transparent to the people.

Another very potent sight is the book burning memorial at Bebelplatz.  This is a potent reminder of Berlin's troubled past, where, according to Heinrich Heine, 

That was only a prelude, there, where they burn books, they burn in the end people.

This memorial is one of the most fitting I have ever seen.  A simple glass tile that becomes obscured in the masses reveals a window into a ghostly library of empty white shelves.  This is especially powerful at night, when the eerie glow really reminds you of the fire which once burned right where you are standing.  Sadly, these words rang true under the Nazi regime.  Another powerful sight a short ride from town is Sachsenhausen concentration camp.  In my experience, I do believe that everyone who has the opportunity to visit one of these places should do so at least once.  They are not enjoyable visits, but they are very important for us as a human race.  This should be a sight-seeing priority if you have never been.  The quote from Dwight D. Eisenhower sums it up quite well-

"The things I saw beggar description...The visual evidence and the verbal testimony of starvation, cruelty and bestiality were so overpowering...I made the visit deliberately, in order to be in a position to give first hand evidence of these things if ever, in the future, there develops a tendency to charge these allegations to propaganda."

Among other sights to visit, definitely don't miss the Brandenburg Gate, Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, the Museum at Checkpoint Charlie, and the Jewish Museum.  Perhaps I will cover these other places and more in a future post on Berlin.  To wrap this up, all I can do is give you the green light to go to Berlin in the only way I can.  See the pic below.  Danke und gute Nacht.

Smithsonian Museum of Air and Space Extension - Udvar-Hazy Center Layover

It's a bit ironic that I haven't posted anything about Washington, D.C.  I am a Washington-Licensed tour guide (and, I actually did it when there was a lengthy examination involved), so it seems fitting that I should put some insight into my experiences in the district.  I'm going to do two new things with this post, however.  I also have done some pretty exciting layovers over the years, so this will also be the first in a series of layover tours.

The Udvar-Hazy extension has been on my list for quite some time, not least of which because I am a space geek.  The big draw for me, of course, was to see the space shuttle Discovery.  I've now visited 3 of the 4 retired space shuttles.  I kept thinking that sooner or later, I would have a tour group go out to it, or that I would have a long enough layover at Dulles airport to do it.  Then, finally, my opportunity came.  Here is my story.  No, this isn't Law and Order.

The plan that I'm going to give is essentially a layover plan.  I'm assuming that you won't have large or much luggage, and that you will take public transit.  It is possible to drive here as well, but beware, despite James Smithson's instructions that all Smithsonian museums be free, that apparently doesn't include the parking lots ($15 currently).  From the main terminal at Dulles, find your way to island 2E.  Here you will wait for bus 983, which runs every 20 minutes or so.  The information desks downstairs at the airport should have schedules available, and it is currently available online at this link: Bus 983 .  The bus is $1.75 each way, cash or SmarTrip card only.  If you're lacking in quarters, there are plenty of little places in the airport to buy something cheap and ask for quarters in change.  The ride is reliably 12 minutes.  When you arrive at the museum, you will have to open your bags for security.  There are FREE lockers available (you have to insert a quarter that is returned when you open the locker).  I found it plenty big for my carry-on and backpack, with room to spare, and, at 25 cents a piece, knock yourself out and get as many lockers as you need.

Once inside, treat yourself to some of the marvels of flight.  This museum carries some of the larger specimens, and many one-of-a-kind aircraft.  They even have the Lockheed SR-71A Blackbird, which broke a speed recrod on its last flight in 1990, flying from Los Angeles to Washington, D.C. in 1 hour, 4 minutes, 20 seconds... after 24 years of active service.  If only passenger jets would catch up!  Looks a bit like something from Naboo.  A fun activity while at the center is going into the mock control tower.  It overlooks the runways at Dulles airport, and also has a nice exhibit explaining the navigational aspects of the FAA and what pilots learn and look for in flight and upon landing.  

Another special exhibit is the refurbishment hangar, where you can watch the engineers and curators actively working to restore aircraft. Information displays give some sparse information on what is being restored.  If you're interested, or traveling with kids, there are also experiences where you can sit in the pilot's chair of a Cessna single prop plane, and also flight simulators. 

Budgeting your time - 

I found 2 1/2 hour so be sufficient for me.  I am a flight enthusiast, which might come from how much time I spend in airplanes... However, if you wanted to do the guided tour (which is free, usually on the hour), ride in the simulators, and perhaps eat lunch at the McDonalds, you may require more time.  I would assume up to 30 minutes time from the airport, and be at the bus stop to return to the airport on time for the 12-minute ride.  Expect security to take 45-60 minutes on your return (A little tip- check out the security line when you leave the terminal to see if it's a good or busy day.  If you have pre-check, even better!)  Minimum layover time - 4 hours.  It's just too risky to do this whole experience and return in time for your flight in less time than that.  Last but not least, enjoy!  There are so many unique exhibits here.  It seems like every other plaque says "last one in existence" or "only prototype ever created".  There is even a full Air France concord in there.  It's an amazing experience, don't miss it!

Layover Stats:

Rating (1-10): 9

Minimum layover: 4 hours

Cost: $3.50 round-trip bus per person (in cash), Simulators/IMAX film extra

Airport: Washington-Dulles (IAD)

Audience: All Ages

Travel Safety and Traveler's Toolbox

Sadly, we live in a post 9/11 world where travel can be as much of a headache as it is a stress-reliever.  The good news is, most places that you want to travel are usually very safe.  I very seldom hear of any tourists facing bodily harm in most touristic destinations in Europe.  Your belongings, however, are another story.  I have literally sat in restaurants on Ramblas watching the street below and seen pickpockets at work.  I have watched the expert scam artists hard at work on the streets in Paris, and seen them disappear into the bushes when the police make their rounds.  Again, you will most likely never face bodily harm in these places, but you should always be careful with your wallet.  This brings me to a couple of my travel essentials.

The first one should be obvious, but you will want to protect that document that must endure 10 long years of travel.  Mine averages 20+ border crossings a year.  It needs to be protected.  I chose the clear sleeve for a number of reasons over the fancier leather options.  First, I don't always have to remove the case to go through passport kiosks in US and some foreign airports.  Secondly, most of the security officers in Europe will put those pesky stickers on the cover instead of my actual passport (which are always near impossible to remove!).  Finally, it helps keep the passport profile very low, so that it will fit into the second accessory, the money belt. 

Let's face it, going to the Embassy to renew your passport abroad is a pain.  I've done it with guests a number of times, and it is no fun.  You lose an entire day or two of your trip, spend a lot of money to sit in a waiting room, and even more money to have a passport replaced on the spot.  During the day, the safest place for your passport is generally your hotel safe.  However, when arriving from overseas, taking transportation with your luggage, or taking international trains, you may have to navigate cities with your passport on your person.  In that case, the money belt is your best bet.  Many people do not like the "in the pants" money belt, but please give me the opportunity to sell you on this idea.  A neck passport holder is obvious.  I'm not even a thief, and I can identify every tourist wearing one.  If I really wanted your money, no amount of social convention would prevent me from grabbing the string from behind your neck, cutting it (the string!), and yanking.  Don't fall victim to this.  The belt version is much more discreet - to the point that I can wear mine with suit pants and still have it completely invisible.  You won't want to put your entire wallet with 16 credit cards and every grocery store discount card in it, but, do you really need those when you travel?  I recommend putting your backup cards in it, as well as any cash not needed for the day, and your passport.  In a safe place, perhaps an interior pocket, place ONE credit card and the cash you will need for the day.  In this way, everything you have is safe, and if your first card gets stolen, at least you can cancel that one and pull the backup out of your moneybelt.  My one word of caution on this - you can NOT go through most airport security wearing this belt.  I usually put mine on in the airplane restroom just prior to landing.  To date, I have never lost a dollar, pound, or euro to a thief while abroad.  I attribute much of that success to this necessary addition to the traveler's tool box.  Thanks for reading!

New Zealand - A Brief Introduction

For those of us in North America, New Zealand is very far from home.  Traveling to such a far corner is quite a challenge, but well worth-while.  It might be a nice addition to your Australia vacation as well, since flights between Melbourne or Sydney and Auckland or Christchurch are relatively inexpensive.  New Zealand is an outdoors person’s paradise, with no real predators, no poisonous snakes, and many miles of unpopulated roads and trails.  For the sake of comparison, New Zealand’s population is roughly 4.5 million, with (roughly) 1.4 million in Auckland, 400k in Wellington, 381k in Christchurch, 224k in Hamilton, and the other half spread out over the remainder of the 103,483 square mile country. This means you will have a lot of space to yourself (as long as you don't travel in a peak time, such as Chinese New Year).   As with any destination, New Zealand will be worthy of many posts, so this is just a primer.  Let's talk about the basics.

Getting to New Zealand from the states will usually require connecting somewhere.  From the West Coast, it is much easier, as there are seasonal direct flights from California.  From the east, you will have to connect.  I would recommend doing a stop in LA and maybe Fiji.  The first couple of days of jet-lag can be very brutal on the opposite side of the world, so a nice relaxing layover will definitely help with that.  

Entry into New Zealand is probably the most strict biological screening I have ever experienced.  The good news is, coming from the US, you will not need a visa to enter.  However, any shoes worn outdoors in any other country must be free of dirt and subject to extra screening.  The same goes for any camping or hiking gear.  Because New Zealand is an island, they naturally would like to protect their environment.  Failure to declare these items will result in an immediate fine, so please declare.  As with any country, any raw food should be discarded before entry.  Pre-packaged and sealed food is ok, but they may want to take a look at anything that contains honey (a key product in New Zealand).  Again, declare everything.

Once through the airports, you are then faced with the difficult problem of transportation.  You will see many, if not hundreds of hitch-hikers.  I don't recommend this method of travel, however, if I felt safe anywhere in the world doing this, it would be here.  A rental car or campervan is certainly a good option.  You will find many companies, such as Jucy, Apollo, Maui, Escape, and Wicked throughout NZ.  Rental cars are also readily available.  If you plan to do both islands, the easiest way to handle this with a rental car is to rent and return on the north island, then do the same on the south island.  Even if your favorite rental car company offers a one-way rental from the north island to the south, be aware that you may be in for a shock when you arrive in NZ and find that the US-based website may have offered you this rental, but you aren't allowed to take the car between islands.  Some companies take care of this seemlessly by having you turn in one car at the ferry terminal in Wellington, then pick up another at the Picton location.  However, this is a very expensive option, and do not count on the US reservations side making the appropriate arrangements.  Also, be aware of the number one traffic hazard in New Zealand - other tourists!

 One other piece of advice in this primer - to book or not to book in advance?  Please book in advance.  Peak season is the NZ summer (during North America's winter), and if you would like to stay in hotels or popular campgrounds, bookings are necessary.  Otherwise, you will find yourself doing a lot of unnecessary driving.  This is especially important in the more remote locations, such as Aoraki Mount Cook and Franz Josef Glacier, as accommodations are limited, and the nearest towns can be a long drive away.  

Finally, the money.  New Zealand is very accepting of credit cards, especially chip and pin.  Be aware that most of your hotels and many restaurants will charge an additional fee for using credit cards (usually 1.5%), however, if you are using a card that has no international transaction fees, this fee will be cheaper than converting your US dollars to cash.

Stay tuned for many more posts on New Zealand and other destinations!

Power On The Road!

Hello internet!  Things do get busy sometimes, but I do want to keep up with you all as much as possible.  To that end, this is the next installment of my toolbox.  In today's world, everyone needs to be plugged in.  I have more guests ask about power outlets and chargers than nearly anything else.  I'd like to link you to one of my personal favorites, but not without an explanation.  Phone companies seem to always go to the lowest common denominator.  How short can they make your charging cord?  I just sigh when I walk through an airport and see all of the people squatting next to a wall outlet.  Then I think of using my phone as an alarm clock on that cord... sometimes in hotels that only have one outlet across the room.  This little device is a lifesaver!  Not only do you only have to carry one charger for all of your electronics (except for my camera, which has a specialized charger), but it also brings that charger close to you.  This little gem also works with any current, as long as you have the appropriate plug adapter for the country you visit.  It also makes you really popular at airports... when people are fighting over one little outlet, plug this in, and share!  It has 6 USB ports after all!