Car Camping and hiking in Washington State

Last summer, I embarked on a very interesting experiment of a trip to Washington State.  I scoured the internet for information and answers to questions, and fell short many times.  This post is about what I learned.  First, the main attractions.

Washington State has so much more than overpriced coffee.  Seattle is a nice city to spend a day or two, but it is hardly where I would choose to spend my entire vacation.  If you're even remotely intrigued by the outdoors, this post is for you.  Washington boasts 3 National Parks, as well as a number of National Monuments and National Forests to keep any outdoor enthusiast busy.  The rainforest in Olympic National Park, Mount Rainier, and the North Cascades are each breathtaking in their own special way.  The photo above is Cascade Pass at the North Cascades.

Basic entry fees, etc.

If you are going to do any amount of hiking in Washington, it's best that you invest in the National Park Annual Pass.  It's essentially good for 12 months, and will not only save you money, but also a headache in Washington.  Drop by a National Park pay station or ranger station to get a windshield hanger for it.  You will need it in Washington.  Before going to Washington, I was confused by all of these NW Forest Pass, State Park Pass, etc.  The National Park Interagency Annual Pass (or lifetime pass if you qualify) provides entry and parking rights at all federal lands in Washington.  No need to get the Forest Pass.  I will discuss the state parks a little bit later.

Where to camp

This is a dicey issue when traveling.  There are a lot of free spirits out there who travel and find a campground wherever they happen to be.  I would love to be that flexible, but if you are traveling in peak season, you may pull into a campground to find it full.  Two ways to handle this - if you don't make reservations, show up at a camp early and pitch your tent before exploring for the day.  Most campgrounds check out between 10-12, so if you show up just after that, you can set up and have a spot when you return.  The other option is, of course, to reserve in advance.  

http://www.parks.state.wa.us/   -     Washington State Parks

http://www.recreation.gov     -     National Park/Forest Campgrounds

Camping in National Parks is definitely an experience to be had, however, bear in mind that National Park Campgrounds don't often have full facilities such as power outlets and showers.  I like to have a nice warm shower, so I generally alternate National Parks with State Parks in order to charge my electronics and have that shower.  The price is roughly the same, but with the National Park Annual pass, you can reserve many National Park campgrounds at a discount.  This post is definitely about car camping, not backpacking... so, with that in mind, choose strategically.  Before you go, look up hikes and drives that you want to do, then find a National Park or State Park campground in the vicinity.  Part of the beauty of camping is that you can be much closer to many of the natural wonders than a hotel.  

Tips for National Park camping

1. Go early and choose your site, as most are first come, first served.

2. Most of the campgrounds have a 4x4 post in the ground with a clip for you to post your payment receipt.  Don't count on this reserving your spot.  Set up a tent.  Unfortunately, theft is a concern, so just set up your tent, put your other valuables in your car or bear locker with a lock.

3. That reminds me - bring a combination lock for the bear locker.  Bears are smart, so you have to have a good combination... Actually, I love having a padlock on the locker.  It ensures that it is closed, and also gives you the option to stash some of your other belongings in there.  Why a combo lock?  If you're traveling with friends or family, everyone can get in, as opposed to waiting for the one person with a key.  Also, keys are small, and the outdoors are big.

4. Be quiet if you return to your site after 9.  Some people are getting up very early to hike, and you do not want to cause a brawl.

5. Follow general camping and "leave no evidence" guidelines.  (I can't use the "T" word because it's apparently copyrighted.  I toyed with saying "hide the evidence")

Tips for Washington State Park camping

1. Make reservations, especially in summer.  State parks will fill up quickly with families doing week-long vacations in the park.

2. Arrive before ranger stations close, or call ahead.  Most state parks will allow you to "self-check-in," but they will want notice.  Most state parks close the main gate around 9 p.m., so if you are arriving late, you will have to call before 5 p.m. to get the gate combination.

3. Bring quarters and $1 bills.  Somehow, this is not prominently advertised on their websites, but hot showers are coin-operated.  The first night in a WA state park, I arrived drenched from a hike in an afternoon rain (go figure... it's Washington), and really wanted my hot shower.  As it turns out, they had a token machine to convert $1 bills to tokens in order to activate the shower.  Needless to say, I never carry cash, so I had to wait til morning to get change at the Ranger station.  P.S. - don't put quarters in a token machine.  As you can see from my photo, the tokens are a slightly smaller size.

4. If you are staying in a site with provided electricity, have an extension cord.  That 2 1/2' cord on your charger will leave your phone out in the rain.  Yes, it will rain, it's Washington.

General tips for both

1. Carry a mallet for tapping in your tent stakes.  Most state parks have gravel tent sites, and most national parks have some degree of rock-hard surface, and that's the only way to get your tent staked down.  On that note, make sure you have a sleeping pad too!

2. Consider a solar phone charger.  I've been using this one below.  from solar charging, especially in cloudy locations, I can't seem to get a full charge on my phone.  However, if you wall-charge it, you can usually get 2 charges up to 80% battery.  I like the feature that you can charge it, then stash it, and charge your phone when needed.  Many models have to be plugged into your phone while getting sunlight, which just isn't practical on the trail or on the road.  I will often clip the carabiner in some discrete location around the tent or set it on the roof of the car when it's parked (it can also be clipped to a backpack, but Murphy's law says it will always flip over and not face the sun no matter what you do) to charge it during the day.  You just have to think of it as a back-up.  You can't play games on your phone all day from it's charge, but it will always have enough to get your phone charged enough to serve it's purpose.

 

Tokyo Disney 101

Take your preconceptions about Disneyland and throw them out of the window.  Tokyo Disney is the most magical place in Japan, and it may very well smash your preconceptions about theme parks.  There is very limited information on the internet about this park, and it is complicated, but well worth two days of your time if you find yourself in Tokyo.  Opened in 1983, Tokyo Disney was the first Disney theme park outside of the USA.  There are now also parks in Paris, Hong Kong, and Shanghai.  Tokyo Disney differs from the other theme parks in several ways, not least of which is the management.  Although it is licensed by the Walt Disney Company, it is owned by The Oriental Land Company.  Most of my readers probably wonder, "why are you telling me this?"  It's important to understand, because many of the things you have come to expect from the other Disney resorts are quite different here.  For one, Cast Members... Annual Passholders... Disney Vacation Club Members... your discounts , passes, and freebies don't work here.  However, I find this park to be very reasonably priced, and, if you're already in Japan, this is a blessing, since the entire country is more expensive than most westerners are accustomed to.  First off, the park itself is out of this world.  The Japanese culture is very much enamored with this place.  You will see adults in nearly full Disney costume... groups of teenagers all dressed alike as chipmunks or Stitch characters.  The most unbelievable Disney hats ever marketed.  Walt would be proud, because the parks are very clean.  However, in Japan, you do not sit on the ground for a parade, you bring your Disney cloth to sit on.  The crowds are actually very polite (and yes, there are CROOWWWWDS).  The front rows in shows and parades always sit in order to give those behind a better view.  You must remove your hats for attractions (read: rides) to not block the view of others.  No photos in them either.  

Did I mention the theming?  Everything has that special Disney touch, even more than the other parks in the world.  I love the grab handles on the Monorails (which, by the way, are public transportation and you have to buy a ticket for...)

The parks themselves are incredible.  The detail is extraordinary.  Tokyo Disney Sea features different seaside locations from around the world, including New York Harbor, Arabian Coast, Port Discovery, Mermaid Lagoon, Mediterranean Harbor, etc.  There is even an active volcano, which you can catch erupting from time to time.  Many of the attractions themselves are not featured in any other park in the world.  Some of these include Pooh's Hunny Hunt, Journey to the Center of the Earth, 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, Monster's Inc Ride and Go Seek, and more.  Especially if you are limited in time, prioritize on the attractions that aren't in your home country.  

Planning

Tokyo Disney is NOT a park to go visit without a plan.  First, tickets are reserved online for the EXACT DATES of your visit.  This is to prevent overcrowding.  Some of us have shown up at the gates of Magic Kingdom in Orlando to be turned away due to park capacity over the holidays.  Tokyo prevents that by having you reserve.  You can print your tickets at home, but due to the paper size issues, it is a good idea to exchange for an actual park ticket at the window.  I suggest doing this the day before your visit (perhaps come stay at an area hotel the night before).  You will have to choose which park to do which days when you purchase your ticket.  Park hopping is not allowed until the 3rd day of a multi-day ticket.  The day of your visit, line up at least an hour before park open, otherwise, you may not be able to do the most popular attractions.  Download a park map and be aware of the location of your first ride before entering.  Don't stop to shop until later...don't worry - in true Disney fashion, those shops are always open when the park is open.  

HELPFUL TIPS (in no particular order): 

• Be patient.  You will notice very quickly that people in Japan are used to waiting in these long lines.  They are often very quiet, and very orderly.  Remember, breaking in line is rude, as is leaving and "coming back to a spot." This flies in Orlando, but not in Japan.  The wait time in my photo is for Pooh's Hunny Hunt, less than 20 minutes after park open.  Luckily, there's FASTPASS!  Try to plan at least 2-3 full days to visit both parks.  
• Be relaxed in your pace.  If you plan, you will be able to do at least the attractions that don't exist at the other Disney resorts
• Try the popcorn.  The Japanese are obsessed with it.  They will refill your popcorn container for a discount, so chip in for a really fun popcorn container.  There are many interesting flavors to try, so look for fun ones, such as Hunny Popcorn at Pooh's Hunny Hunt, or the Jasmine Green Tea Popcorn or the Curry Popcorn.
• Try the Gyoza dog.  That's really not the name, but that's about the best comparison I can come up with.  Gyoza on a stick.  You will have to stand in a 20 minute line to get it, but it's a great lunch, and very unique.
• Get a fastpass for the fireworks.  Different from DisneyWorld - You do NOT crowd the castle to capacity during the show.  They have assigned seats on benches.  No fastpass, no fireworks for you.  (Also, the fireworks are not significantly better than what you see at other Disney Parks, so this may be a great opportunity to enjoy shorter lines)
• There are ATM's around, but the Japanese ATM's don't work with most American cards.  HOWEVER, Tokyo Disney takes American credit cards almost everywhere except for merchandise carts.
• Meet some of the unique characters that don't appear very much in the states.  Some of my favorites that rarely appear anywhere else in the world are Scrooge McDuck, Bernard and Bianca, Berlioz, Piglet, Tweedles, Honest John and Gideon, Brer Bear, Eric and Max, 3 Pigs and Big Bad Wolf, and Jiminy Cricket.  

• Enjoy the very amazing theming, especially at Tokyo Disney Sea.  
• Soak in the uniquely Japanese items, such as the Disney character Ramen.
• You will have sensory overload, so just take it slow and take it in.
• See the Electrical Parade, it will knock your socks off.  If you have seen Paint the Night in California, it's very similar.
• Pin Trading doesn't exist here.  They still have pins for sale, but not for trade.

Quick Day plans:

Disneyland Side

• Go straight to Hunny Hunt and get a fastpass. 
• Then Ride Monster's Inc.  
• Double back and go on Small World (it's different in every park, but sadly, the song is the same...  Bring earmuffs)
• Depending on your Fastpass time for Hunny Hunt, go wait for Peter Pan (It is different here, and worth doing)
• Ride Snow White's Adventures (those of us in Orlando miss this ride back at home!)
• Try out Tokyo's Space Mountain and Thunder Mountain
• Use the rest of your day to shop and catch whichever other attractions interest you, you've hit the highlights!

Disney Sea Side

• Go straight to the Tower of Terror and get a fastpass (this is the most expensive and different Tower of Terror built for a Disney Park)
• Go straight to Journey to the Center of the Earth and ride
• Go to 20,000 Leagues and ride
• Try out StormRider
• Aquatopia is great fun if you don't mind getting a little wet!
• Explore!  The various worlds are really breathtaking.  But, take my advice, don't expend time on Toy Story Midway Mania, it's the same as Orlando, and a huge vacuum of time.  The Mysterious Island is very fun to explore.  I really enjoy all of the Renaissance Era constructions, such as DaVinci's flying machine and the planetarium.  Mermaid Lagoon is amazing inside, and a great place to duck out of the weather.  You would also like the Arabian Coast, which has a fun two-story carousel, which is much less crowded at night. 

Hopefully this way-too-long post has sparked your interest in my favorite Disney Park.  Should you have any questions, please read the sign the the left.  Arigato Gozaimasu!

St. Peter Line to St. Petersburg, Russia

I have combed the internet for information on this new(ish) visa-free travel to Russia, and I really couldn't find any step-by-step directions for how to do it.  Therefore, I had to take one for the team and try it.  

What you need to know about Visa-Free travel to Russia - 

1. This advice applies primarily to US citizens, but to my knowledge the same is true for UK, EU, Australian and Canadians as well.  

2. In order to travel to Russia, you have three options:

1. Obtain a Tourist Visa by mailing off paperwork, including a letter of invitation from a Russian organization and paying a large fee (Most tour companies will take care of this letter of invitation and helping with the paperwork if you choose to go this route)
2. Go on a cruise ship.  With this option, you are REQUIRED to purchase the shore excursion and be with your guide at all times.
3. Take the St. Peter Line "ferry," which allows you 72 hours in Russia with no Visa.  This is the option that I'll be covering today.

3. This Visa-free option is something that the Russian Federation is simply trying out.  It could go away at any time, unannounced.  When you make your plans, be prepared to book a last-minute hotel in Helsinki or Tallinn instead if the Visa-free rule is revoked.

4. You are allowed a maximum of 72 hours in Russia.  If you overstay, or try to leave by a different route other than the St. Peter Line, you can (and probably will)  be arrested and fined.  You will be tempted to stay longer, because there is simply that much to see.  If you feel this way, go back to 2.1 and get the Visa to stay as long as you need. 

5. You do not have to be escorted, regardless of what the paperwork says.  However, in order to make it "legal," you are required to buy the tour that St. Peter Line offers.  It's not a tour, just simply a round-trip bus into St. Petersburg from the ferry terminal.

6. St. Peter Line is NOT A CRUISE SHIP.  Go ahead and accept this.  It's not going to be as clean nor offer the amenities that a major cruise liner would offer.  When I read the reviews about it on TripAdvisor, I just rolled on the floor laughing at how many people were trying to compare it to a cruise ship.  This ship is transportation with a bed.  If you set your expectations appropriately, you won't be disappointed!

So, how do you do all of this?

STEP 1-

Make your reservations early.  St. Peter Line has great discounts in the rates if you book at least a month in advance.  St. Peter Line runs from Helsinki, Stockholm, and Tallinn to St. Petersburg.  Look at the schedule to find a route that fits your needs.  I do not recommend going all the way from Stockholm.  That is a really long way on a ship that has very little to do on board.  Plus, if you arrive in Helsinki, you can get to the airport and fly to Stockholm faster than waiting for the ship (takes 2 days to get there from St. Petersburg).  I recommend booking a pre-night in Helsinki or Tallinn, so that you can store your luggage at the hotel and explore that city during the day.  

STEP 2-

Book St. Peter Line

https://stpeterline.com/en

1. This is the English landing page.  Click book now.

2. Click FERRY TRIP. 

3. Choose your route.  You will note that St. Peter Line goes to Helsinki a lot more than to Tallinn.  Tallinn is a 50 minute ride from Helsinki, and if you go round trip from Helsinki, you can store your luggage at the Ferry Terminal.  Be sure that your stay in SPB is less than 72 hours.  I have been on both ships, the Princess Maria and Princess Anastasia.  The Anastasia seems a little newer and nicer, but not so drastic as to plan around it.

4. Choose your cabin.  Be careful and wise about this.  Just remember, the window doesn't open in the premium cabins... AND, if you're traveling in the middle of summer, it won't be dark until midnight.  The main difference isn't reached until you book the luxury ones, which I have never stayed in.

5. Choose your available promotions.  Click add and remove on all of them until the price is the lowest.  This is a strange and illogical website feature.  

6.  Choose your meals.  You are NOT allowed to bring any food or drink on board, so bear that in mind when you book your meals.  Even your granola bars will be confiscated.  I was able to eat in the coffeeshop for under €10 for dinner in Helsinki.  For breakfast, I sprung for the Breakfast Deluxe at €16.74.  While it is true that it is as expensive as a hotel breakfast, I found it to be worthwhile.  The regular breakfast is already €11.16, and the upgrade to the Deluxe includes an omelette station, better coffee, and better buffet in general.  I had a hard time filling up on the "regular" breakfast.  The Deluxe kept me full until 2 in the afternoon.  The pre-paid meals will come with a voucher that you collect when you check in for the Ferry.  You simply hand them over and go in.  This is a huge time-saver when arriving in St. Petersburg, vs. having to handle a cash transaction before you can eat.  Breakfast begins at 6 a.m., even though the arrival is 8:30, giving you plenty of time to eat and still be among the first off the ship.

7. Choose your extras.  You are required to have the "City Bus Tour," which, again, is just simply transportation to the city.  

8. Choose a hotel.  You are NOT required to book your hotel through St. Peter Line.  You can do Air BnB or Hotels.com or whatever you are comfortable with.

9. Choose a land program.  You are also NOT required to book one of their land programs.  The price is good, and if you're just wanting to see things in a hurry, you probably can't go wrong.  There are lots of local companies that specialize in tours for Visa-free people, so I would recommend finding one that has the program you want.

10. Create a Log in.  It's not required, but I think that it's advisable so that you can go back into your booking later and look at it.  You may want to call your credit card before the transaction, because they seem to think an online transaction to Russia is a questionable charge. 

STEP 3-

Prepping for the ship.

I recommend putting your large bags in storage at your hotel in Helsinki, or, if they won't do it, there are lockers available in the Ferry Terminal for €4 per day which will hold a suitcase.  There aren't very many, so, be early to the terminal if you need this service.  You will also want to be aware that there is no ramp or elevator when arriving in St. Petersburg, so whatever bag you bring you must be able to carry up and down a flight of stairs.  No food or drink is allowed on the ship, but Euros are accepted as payment.

STEP 4-

Arrival at the ship.

Be EARLY.

When you check in for the ship, it will be very chaotic.  A lot of tour companies use this Visa-free loophole to take budget tourists to Russia for a day.  There will be hundreds of them in the check-in and passport check areas. You will have to go through Finnish passport control exiting Helsinki, and they are fairly meticulous, so you will need some time.  It takes approximately 45-60 minutes to board.

STEP 5-

On board.  I had dinner in the coffee shop and went to bed as early as possible.  Your time in St. Petersburg is very limited, so you will want to maximize every minute.  You can read reviews of the ship online ad nauseum, but you will want to simply get some rest.  The pool and gym facilities are not worth the price, and you will want to rest.  The pictures are a standard B2 cabin on Princess Anastasia.

 As you can see, it's pretty basic.  Towels and linens are provided, but I wouldn't count on being able to get extras during your trip.

STEP 6-

Arrival in Russia.  It's very chaotic.  If you truly want to be first off the ship, I would be waiting in the disembarkation area by 8:00.  The tour group leaders will probably have their groups there as well that early.  You do have one advantage, however.  Usually their group leaders will pull them aside on shore to go through passport control together.  You will get a stamp, but no Visa.  You will also need to keep your departure card from St. Peter Line and the Arrival card issued by Russian Passport Control.  Keep it all in your passport, and keep your passport in a safe place.  At this point, if you've booked a tour, maybe you're lucky enough to have your guide meet you at the terminal.  This way, you can skip the city bus ride and begin seeing things immediately! 

STEP 7-

Your time in Russia.  Enjoy it.  This is still a very rare opportunity to look into a very rich culture that has been relatively inaccessible to the Western world for many years.  St. Petersburg is a wonderful neoclassical city with much to see and do.  Be sure to do a canal cruise and see the Hermitage.  Consider going to a concert or Ballet in the evening (but book in advance online).  Try some Russian food - especially the pancakes.  Enjoy your peak into their world for a couple of days.  You will probably want to come back and get the visa in the future, but with a limited window of opportunity, you may want to enjoy this less-expensive option to get your first taste of Russia.

I hope this article is helpful for you, and if you have done this, or are thinking of doing this, please leave some comments, and I'll be happy to help in any way I can.  Bon voyage!

Druid Arch

Canyonlands is really a fantastic National Park, but it's not all that great if you don't hike. The views from the roads are nice, Mesa Arch is really worth a sunrise visit, but you really have to hike. The National Park is divided into two sections, the Mesa, and the Needles. The Mesa is called "Island in the Sky," which is a very nice and inspirational name. Island is about 45 minutes away from Moab to the North, and The Needles is a out an hour and a half southward from Moab. The only way to travel between the two other than this drive is by backpacking. Personally, I find the Needles to be much more spectacular and much less visited. En route, you will have the opportunity to visit Newspaper Rock, a very nice collection of petroglyphs.

Upon arrival, drop by the visitor center for your last chance to fill your water bottles and use a restroom. The rangers at this center tend to be very knowledgeable about trails (not as common when you go to more mainstream parks). They are very good at advising which trails based upon your skill level and amount of free time.

The hike I want to cover in this post is the Druid Arch trail. This is approximately 11 miles round trip on the shortest trail. Overall, the trail itself is not too strenuous for most of the journey, but there are a few sections that require some scrambling skills and some upper body strength. The most dangerous part is that there is no potable water on the trail, and in a dry season, the little creeks may not even offer much to purify with a filter. In moderate heat, I drank about two liters on the trail, with more before and after. The area you will be hiking in is called Elephant Canyon. It's got lots of side trails to vary your route a bit if you are camping on the way (there are many campsites along the way) or if you have extra time and energy. The best light on the arch would be before noon, so, if you are departing from Moab, you would want to leave before dawn. If you can backpack in for a night and get an early start in the morning, even better. Most of the hike will be in sandy river beds or on rock. The final section is the most technical, as it is a bit like scree and a little treacherous, but when you come around the corner and see a 450 foot arch, you will be rewarded. For comparison, the Delicate Arch is 60 feet. No photo will do this Arch justice, so you may have to make this journey to see it yourself. I love how it is reminiscent of Stonehenge, paying homage back to the days of the druids in the UK. Such a spectacular place. Until next time!

Packing Cubes

Well folks, I never thought I'd be one to carry something unnecessary on the road, but after a month of testing these things, I think I like them! These are packing cubes. They come in several different brands, all readily available from Amazon. I've tested three different brands, and from a cost/weight/durability standpoint, I like the Amazon basics. They weigh approximately 3 ounces each empty, so they do add to your luggage weight. However, the organization is really nice. For my clothes, I can fold dress slacks and dress shirts and barely need to iron them. This is completely worth the weight. I think the small and medium cubes are the most useful. The large is a little too big to snugly hold anything, and honestly hard to stack into my bag. One last tip- put a dryer sheet in each one to keep your luggage smelling fresh. Happy trails!

Ich bin ein Berliner

Ich bin ein Berliner - Probably the most famous Kennedy quote, and not even in English.  You may have heard this translated as "I am a doughnut." This is true!  However, it is also not true.  A certain doughnut is called a Berliner because it is from Berlin, just as a Berliner is a person from Berlin.  Fun story.  No city truly exemplifies a modern rebirth like Berlin.  I must admit... Berlin was never very high on my list of places to go.  However, from my first visit onward, it has really captured me in a very unique way.  From the familiar sights, such as the Berlin wall, the old Soviet TV tower, the Brandenburg Gate, and of course the Reichstag, Berlin has much to offer not just in the way of Cold War sights, but also a lot culturally.  From a touristic standpoint, it is still one of the least expensive major cities in Europe, and there is much to see.  Let's start with the basics.

Getting there - Berlin is very accessible from overseas, as well as the rest of Europe.  There are two major airports currently, with another on the way.  TXL and SXF will be your search codes when looking for the lowest fares.  Both are very easily connected to the city by public transportation.  

Public transportation is very easy in Berlin.  I like sticking to the S-bahn and U-bahn trains, supplemented by the occasional bus when necessary.  The simplest way to navigate purchase your metro tickets is by buying a day pass (Tageskarte), which currently will run you approximately €6-7 depending on which zones you stay within (A,B,C).  Zone C is mainly needed for airports and Sachsenhausen concentration camp.  Also, if you are with a group of up to 5 people, you can buy a Kleingruppenkarte (small group ticket) which will allow all 5 to travel all day for a fixed price (approximately €15 Euros last time I was there).  After purchasing your ticket, you will need to validate it one time on the yellow machines on the platform.  Then, stow the ticket in a safe place.  You will only need to show it if asked by a ticket inspector.  Otherwise, public transportation has no turnstiles, as it is an honor system.

Eating in Berlin is also very easy.  There are many places offering the usual international chain food.  Something you must try is Currywurst.  It is essentially a sausage diced and covered in a curry gravy.  Nice and heavy street food.  It's also cheap enough to fill up on!  There is also fine dining available in any major center of town, especially near the Museum Island and along Unter den Linden.  

Sleeping in Berlin is also quite inexpensive.  I like staying near Alexanderplatz or in the Mitte neighborhood.  These offer options that are very inexpensive and accessible to my recommended sights.  

Some sights to see, in no particular order follow.  Please note, I could spend months writing about sights in Berlin.  So, this is by no means a complete list.  If you're interested in more, or planning a trip to Berlin, please leave me a comment, and I'll move it up my priority list.

East side gallery - see the first photo.  This is the largest remaining stretch of the wall, and now an outdoor ar gallery.  The murals you see were painted by artists from all over the world.  Many of the paintings are very potent to the history of Berlin.  Take the S-Bahn to Ostbahnhof to visit it.  Grab a banana from a convenience store to snack on while you walk this stretch of the wall, remembering that folks isolated by this wall couldn't get this exotic fruit (East Berliners are obsesses with bananas now!). 

Pergamon Museum and Ishtar Gate - This museum surprised me. I had read about the very amaing Greek Pergamon Alter reconstructed in this museum.  What I had not read about was the Ishtar Gate, which was constructed in 575 B.C. by King Nebuchadnezzar II in the city of Babylon, and now reconstructed in Berlin for your enjoyment.  This, to me, was one of the most amazing pieces I have ever seen, and such an interesting look into an ancient culture. 

The Reichstag - Or the parliament of Germany is a very interesting visit.  Reserve your tickets to visit the roof months in advance online at bundestag.de. You will be glad you did.  The building itself suffered a huge fire, which was conveniently blamed on those that opposed Hitler.  It provided just one other means for him to seize power.  The new dome is constructed of glass, a symbol that the new government should be transparent to the people.

Another very potent sight is the book burning memorial at Bebelplatz.  This is a potent reminder of Berlin's troubled past, where, according to Heinrich Heine, 

That was only a prelude, there, where they burn books, they burn in the end people.

This memorial is one of the most fitting I have ever seen.  A simple glass tile that becomes obscured in the masses reveals a window into a ghostly library of empty white shelves.  This is especially powerful at night, when the eerie glow really reminds you of the fire which once burned right where you are standing.  Sadly, these words rang true under the Nazi regime.  Another powerful sight a short ride from town is Sachsenhausen concentration camp.  In my experience, I do believe that everyone who has the opportunity to visit one of these places should do so at least once.  They are not enjoyable visits, but they are very important for us as a human race.  This should be a sight-seeing priority if you have never been.  The quote from Dwight D. Eisenhower sums it up quite well-

"The things I saw beggar description...The visual evidence and the verbal testimony of starvation, cruelty and bestiality were so overpowering...I made the visit deliberately, in order to be in a position to give first hand evidence of these things if ever, in the future, there develops a tendency to charge these allegations to propaganda."

Among other sights to visit, definitely don't miss the Brandenburg Gate, Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, the Museum at Checkpoint Charlie, and the Jewish Museum.  Perhaps I will cover these other places and more in a future post on Berlin.  To wrap this up, all I can do is give you the green light to go to Berlin in the only way I can.  See the pic below.  Danke und gute Nacht.

Smithsonian Museum of Air and Space Extension - Udvar-Hazy Center Layover

It's a bit ironic that I haven't posted anything about Washington, D.C.  I am a Washington-Licensed tour guide (and, I actually did it when there was a lengthy examination involved), so it seems fitting that I should put some insight into my experiences in the district.  I'm going to do two new things with this post, however.  I also have done some pretty exciting layovers over the years, so this will also be the first in a series of layover tours.

The Udvar-Hazy extension has been on my list for quite some time, not least of which because I am a space geek.  The big draw for me, of course, was to see the space shuttle Discovery.  I've now visited 3 of the 4 retired space shuttles.  I kept thinking that sooner or later, I would have a tour group go out to it, or that I would have a long enough layover at Dulles airport to do it.  Then, finally, my opportunity came.  Here is my story.  No, this isn't Law and Order.

The plan that I'm going to give is essentially a layover plan.  I'm assuming that you won't have large or much luggage, and that you will take public transit.  It is possible to drive here as well, but beware, despite James Smithson's instructions that all Smithsonian museums be free, that apparently doesn't include the parking lots ($15 currently).  From the main terminal at Dulles, find your way to island 2E.  Here you will wait for bus 983, which runs every 20 minutes or so.  The information desks downstairs at the airport should have schedules available, and it is currently available online at this link: Bus 983 .  The bus is $1.75 each way, cash or SmarTrip card only.  If you're lacking in quarters, there are plenty of little places in the airport to buy something cheap and ask for quarters in change.  The ride is reliably 12 minutes.  When you arrive at the museum, you will have to open your bags for security.  There are FREE lockers available (you have to insert a quarter that is returned when you open the locker).  I found it plenty big for my carry-on and backpack, with room to spare, and, at 25 cents a piece, knock yourself out and get as many lockers as you need.

Once inside, treat yourself to some of the marvels of flight.  This museum carries some of the larger specimens, and many one-of-a-kind aircraft.  They even have the Lockheed SR-71A Blackbird, which broke a speed recrod on its last flight in 1990, flying from Los Angeles to Washington, D.C. in 1 hour, 4 minutes, 20 seconds... after 24 years of active service.  If only passenger jets would catch up!  Looks a bit like something from Naboo.  A fun activity while at the center is going into the mock control tower.  It overlooks the runways at Dulles airport, and also has a nice exhibit explaining the navigational aspects of the FAA and what pilots learn and look for in flight and upon landing.  

Another special exhibit is the refurbishment hangar, where you can watch the engineers and curators actively working to restore aircraft. Information displays give some sparse information on what is being restored.  If you're interested, or traveling with kids, there are also experiences where you can sit in the pilot's chair of a Cessna single prop plane, and also flight simulators. 

Budgeting your time - 

I found 2 1/2 hour so be sufficient for me.  I am a flight enthusiast, which might come from how much time I spend in airplanes... However, if you wanted to do the guided tour (which is free, usually on the hour), ride in the simulators, and perhaps eat lunch at the McDonalds, you may require more time.  I would assume up to 30 minutes time from the airport, and be at the bus stop to return to the airport on time for the 12-minute ride.  Expect security to take 45-60 minutes on your return (A little tip- check out the security line when you leave the terminal to see if it's a good or busy day.  If you have pre-check, even better!)  Minimum layover time - 4 hours.  It's just too risky to do this whole experience and return in time for your flight in less time than that.  Last but not least, enjoy!  There are so many unique exhibits here.  It seems like every other plaque says "last one in existence" or "only prototype ever created".  There is even a full Air France concord in there.  It's an amazing experience, don't miss it!

Layover Stats:

Rating (1-10): 9

Minimum layover: 4 hours

Cost: $3.50 round-trip bus per person (in cash), Simulators/IMAX film extra

Airport: Washington-Dulles (IAD)

Audience: All Ages

Travel Safety and Traveler's Toolbox

Sadly, we live in a post 9/11 world where travel can be as much of a headache as it is a stress-reliever.  The good news is, most places that you want to travel are usually very safe.  I very seldom hear of any tourists facing bodily harm in most touristic destinations in Europe.  Your belongings, however, are another story.  I have literally sat in restaurants on Ramblas watching the street below and seen pickpockets at work.  I have watched the expert scam artists hard at work on the streets in Paris, and seen them disappear into the bushes when the police make their rounds.  Again, you will most likely never face bodily harm in these places, but you should always be careful with your wallet.  This brings me to a couple of my travel essentials.

The first one should be obvious, but you will want to protect that document that must endure 10 long years of travel.  Mine averages 20+ border crossings a year.  It needs to be protected.  I chose the clear sleeve for a number of reasons over the fancier leather options.  First, I don't always have to remove the case to go through passport kiosks in US and some foreign airports.  Secondly, most of the security officers in Europe will put those pesky stickers on the cover instead of my actual passport (which are always near impossible to remove!).  Finally, it helps keep the passport profile very low, so that it will fit into the second accessory, the money belt. 

Let's face it, going to the Embassy to renew your passport abroad is a pain.  I've done it with guests a number of times, and it is no fun.  You lose an entire day or two of your trip, spend a lot of money to sit in a waiting room, and even more money to have a passport replaced on the spot.  During the day, the safest place for your passport is generally your hotel safe.  However, when arriving from overseas, taking transportation with your luggage, or taking international trains, you may have to navigate cities with your passport on your person.  In that case, the money belt is your best bet.  Many people do not like the "in the pants" money belt, but please give me the opportunity to sell you on this idea.  A neck passport holder is obvious.  I'm not even a thief, and I can identify every tourist wearing one.  If I really wanted your money, no amount of social convention would prevent me from grabbing the string from behind your neck, cutting it (the string!), and yanking.  Don't fall victim to this.  The belt version is much more discreet - to the point that I can wear mine with suit pants and still have it completely invisible.  You won't want to put your entire wallet with 16 credit cards and every grocery store discount card in it, but, do you really need those when you travel?  I recommend putting your backup cards in it, as well as any cash not needed for the day, and your passport.  In a safe place, perhaps an interior pocket, place ONE credit card and the cash you will need for the day.  In this way, everything you have is safe, and if your first card gets stolen, at least you can cancel that one and pull the backup out of your moneybelt.  My one word of caution on this - you can NOT go through most airport security wearing this belt.  I usually put mine on in the airplane restroom just prior to landing.  To date, I have never lost a dollar, pound, or euro to a thief while abroad.  I attribute much of that success to this necessary addition to the traveler's tool box.  Thanks for reading!

New Zealand - A Brief Introduction

For those of us in North America, New Zealand is very far from home.  Traveling to such a far corner is quite a challenge, but well worth-while.  It might be a nice addition to your Australia vacation as well, since flights between Melbourne or Sydney and Auckland or Christchurch are relatively inexpensive.  New Zealand is an outdoors person’s paradise, with no real predators, no poisonous snakes, and many miles of unpopulated roads and trails.  For the sake of comparison, New Zealand’s population is roughly 4.5 million, with (roughly) 1.4 million in Auckland, 400k in Wellington, 381k in Christchurch, 224k in Hamilton, and the other half spread out over the remainder of the 103,483 square mile country. This means you will have a lot of space to yourself (as long as you don't travel in a peak time, such as Chinese New Year).   As with any destination, New Zealand will be worthy of many posts, so this is just a primer.  Let's talk about the basics.

Getting to New Zealand from the states will usually require connecting somewhere.  From the West Coast, it is much easier, as there are seasonal direct flights from California.  From the east, you will have to connect.  I would recommend doing a stop in LA and maybe Fiji.  The first couple of days of jet-lag can be very brutal on the opposite side of the world, so a nice relaxing layover will definitely help with that.  

Entry into New Zealand is probably the most strict biological screening I have ever experienced.  The good news is, coming from the US, you will not need a visa to enter.  However, any shoes worn outdoors in any other country must be free of dirt and subject to extra screening.  The same goes for any camping or hiking gear.  Because New Zealand is an island, they naturally would like to protect their environment.  Failure to declare these items will result in an immediate fine, so please declare.  As with any country, any raw food should be discarded before entry.  Pre-packaged and sealed food is ok, but they may want to take a look at anything that contains honey (a key product in New Zealand).  Again, declare everything.

Once through the airports, you are then faced with the difficult problem of transportation.  You will see many, if not hundreds of hitch-hikers.  I don't recommend this method of travel, however, if I felt safe anywhere in the world doing this, it would be here.  A rental car or campervan is certainly a good option.  You will find many companies, such as Jucy, Apollo, Maui, Escape, and Wicked throughout NZ.  Rental cars are also readily available.  If you plan to do both islands, the easiest way to handle this with a rental car is to rent and return on the north island, then do the same on the south island.  Even if your favorite rental car company offers a one-way rental from the north island to the south, be aware that you may be in for a shock when you arrive in NZ and find that the US-based website may have offered you this rental, but you aren't allowed to take the car between islands.  Some companies take care of this seemlessly by having you turn in one car at the ferry terminal in Wellington, then pick up another at the Picton location.  However, this is a very expensive option, and do not count on the US reservations side making the appropriate arrangements.  Also, be aware of the number one traffic hazard in New Zealand - other tourists!

 One other piece of advice in this primer - to book or not to book in advance?  Please book in advance.  Peak season is the NZ summer (during North America's winter), and if you would like to stay in hotels or popular campgrounds, bookings are necessary.  Otherwise, you will find yourself doing a lot of unnecessary driving.  This is especially important in the more remote locations, such as Aoraki Mount Cook and Franz Josef Glacier, as accommodations are limited, and the nearest towns can be a long drive away.  

Finally, the money.  New Zealand is very accepting of credit cards, especially chip and pin.  Be aware that most of your hotels and many restaurants will charge an additional fee for using credit cards (usually 1.5%), however, if you are using a card that has no international transaction fees, this fee will be cheaper than converting your US dollars to cash.

Stay tuned for many more posts on New Zealand and other destinations!

Power On The Road!

Hello internet!  Things do get busy sometimes, but I do want to keep up with you all as much as possible.  To that end, this is the next installment of my toolbox.  In today's world, everyone needs to be plugged in.  I have more guests ask about power outlets and chargers than nearly anything else.  I'd like to link you to one of my personal favorites, but not without an explanation.  Phone companies seem to always go to the lowest common denominator.  How short can they make your charging cord?  I just sigh when I walk through an airport and see all of the people squatting next to a wall outlet.  Then I think of using my phone as an alarm clock on that cord... sometimes in hotels that only have one outlet across the room.  This little device is a lifesaver!  Not only do you only have to carry one charger for all of your electronics (except for my camera, which has a specialized charger), but it also brings that charger close to you.  This little gem also works with any current, as long as you have the appropriate plug adapter for the country you visit.  It also makes you really popular at airports... when people are fighting over one little outlet, plug this in, and share!  It has 6 USB ports after all!

What does an American Vacation look like?

I was just doing some research and stumbled across this article on visualeconomics.com .  I can't say precisely when it was published, but I did find the numbers interesting, as well as the list of the top 25 destinations within the United States. 50% of people don't take their full vacation days... Go travel people!  It's good for you!

Paris...Where to begin?

Having done the majority of my guiding in France, I figured it was important to address one of my favorite cities early in the days of this blog.  Paris is such a special place, a center of history, art, and culture, that it may outrank any of my favorite cities in my own country as one of the places you must go in your lifetime.  

Paris is going through a very difficult time right now, but it has consistently ranked at or near the top of the world's most visited cities (number 3 in 2014, probably down a little in 2015).  

Why should you visit Paris?  For one, it is a beautiful city.  The homogeneous Haussmann architecture and uniformity of design makes it beautiful from street level.  Iconic monuments such as the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and the Cathedral of Notre Dame add to the splendor.  Then, consider the art within these buildings.  There is the Louvre, containing not only some of the most well-known works of art, but also rooms upon rooms of art waiting to be discovered by YOU!  Then there's my favorite museum, the Musée D'Orsay, which basically continues where the Louvre finishes, including the Impressionists gallery.  Then there's the food, which, in my opinion, ties brilliantly with Italian as the top cuisine in the world.  In fact, the word cuisine is French.  There is also the experience.  No one has yet asked about the name "Global Café." This comes from my desire to experience a culture, not just see it from the outside.  You cannot experience France without enjoying a long, generous meal at a sidewalk café.  For the American readers, those would be the places where you cannot get your bill, and service seems slow because they do not want to bother you in the middle of your conversation.  In France, a meal time is an experience, not just for nourishment.

Are you convinced yet?  How about France in 2016 and 2017?  My opinion is, this is a great time to go!  The novices will be scared away by the unfortunate events of last year, hopefully leaving the city less crowded for your enjoyment.  My tip of the day, is one thing you should be SURE to do before you travel is reserve your ticket to the top of the Eiffel Tower.  This can be done by clicking here.  Should you find yourself in the unfortunate situation of the top being sold out, have no fear!  Book to the second level, allowing at least two hours after your time before closing (the top closes before the scheduled close of the tower), and buy the tickets to the sommet (top)  on the second level.

There will be many more tips and tricks for Paris in the future, after all, how do you put one of the world's greatest cities into a single post?

À bientôt!

Angel's Landing - Zion National Park

Zion National Park has taken its place as one of my favorite National Parks in the United States.  This was no easy feat for this park, and I will tell you why.  If you go to Zion in the summer, or a weekend in late spring, and spend your entire time in the "scenic drive" (aka shuttle served) area, it can be very crowded.  I've found that week days and shoulder season can be truly miraculous times to visit this park.  I'm happy to say that I was able to do every trail inside the canyon last year.  Many of them for the 4th or 5th time.  I will do a review of them all in time, but I wanted to start with the big one.  Angel's Landing.

Angel's Landing (numbers repeated directly from NPS)

Difficulty: Strenuous

Round trip time: 4+ hours

Distance: 5.4 miles

Elevation gain: 1488' / 453 meters

I have read numerous reviews on this trail.  I've seen everything from "anyone in moderate shape can do it" to "this is a very dangerous hike." Being an experienced hiker, I usually know when I pass someone on a trail if I will see them at the top or not.  My personal opinion is that you should only do this trail if you have some experience hiking, or if you are with someone who is experienced.  If you are afraid of heights and 1,488' drops on both sides of your 3' wide trail, you can still enjoy this experience, but just hike to the Scouts lookout.  

The obligatory safety speech:

Hiking is one of the most rewarding activities on the planet.  If you are comfortable with the risks involved, but aren't sure if this hike is for you, I would recommend doing one of the easier hikes in the canyon first to see how your body responds.  Due to the extreme proximity of Zion to Vegas, if you are on this trail at the wrong time (busy Saturday afternoon), the trail may be too busy and ruin your experience with nature.  I recommend avoiding these times.  I see people frequently "hiking" in flip flops or bare foot carrying no water or supplies.  Please be prepared with proper attire and gear.

What to bring:

This is what is with me every time I go on a trail, even if it's just a short day hike.

1. Water

2. Water (see what I did there?) - If you know how much you usually drink, you can carry just the right amount.  I hydrate before beginning, and drink approximately one full liter on this trail. I would double that in summer.

3. Snacks - I don't think I have ever seen anyone not pull out an energy bar at the top of Angel's Landing.  It burns a LOT of calories climbing.  You will want at least one, if not two bars and/or a bag of some trail mix.

4. Sunscreen

5. Cell phone - you won't have service all of the time, but if something happens it's a nice backup plan.

6. Whistle - I've never had to use mine, but there's something comforting about knowing that you can draw attention to yourself if you experience a fall and cannot move.  You can only yell for so long, but as long as you are breathing you can blow a whistle.  Three blasts in a row is traditional SOS.

7. Pocket knife - You all saw 127 Hours?  That's not the reason... let's cover that in another post.

8. Camera - Don't hike all this way and not bring a camera!

9. Park map - The free one at the visitor center is fine for this hike.  It will help you approximate your position on the trail, but also identify what you can see from the top!

When to go:

Early or late in the day.  Zion Canyon is oriented on a North-South axis.  The shadows will be most extreme early or late.  If you leave early enough in the morning, you will climb most of the exposed portions before direct sunlight hits you.  Late in the day, you could manage to stay in the shade quite a bit. Sunset is a beautiful time, but you will want to get past the chains before it gets completely dark on the descent.

Departure Point:

The Grotto.  Note the big warning signs and the audio on the shuttle.  If you arrive at the Lodge stop, and there is no shuttle, sometimes you can walk to the Grotto faster than taking the shuttle.  This is only 1/2 mile of level walking added to your trip.  If you are starting early in the day, this makes a nice warm up for your legs before you hit the incline.

The Trail:

You've been waiting for this!  From the shuttle stop, cross to the West side of the road, and follow the West Rim Trail.  The beginning of the trail is pleasant enough.  It's a nice steady climb for a very long while.  If you are a runner, and IF THE TRAIL ISN'T CROWDED, some of these portions make for a nice jog.  Personally, I find jogging up the incline is easier on my legs than a steady plod.  Walter's Wiggles.  These switchbacks were constructed in the 1930's, and make the ascent a little faster.  They're a great leg workout, and fun to view from above. Just around the corner is Scout's Lookout.  This is a great stopping point to catch your breath before attempting the chains, OR a great place to enjoy the view and turn around if you're not up for the last half mile.  

The final section is the most exhilarating!  Keep in mind that there are some portions where the trail is barely 3 feet across with a drop of over 1400 feet on both sides.  Do not attempt this if you are not comfortable with this.  That being said, the NPS has put a great deal of effort into making sure there are strategically placed chains and rails in the scariest parts.  Please be polite to your fellow hikers and allow them to pass.  The worst moments on the chains are when someone becomes scared, and freezes onto a section of chain.  If this happens to you, ease yourself back and enjoy the view from Scout's Lookout.  For those of you who continue, you WILL be rewarded!

The view from the top is the reason you did all of that!  Don't miss out on enjoying the reward for your journey.  All too often, people turn around within 5 minutes of arriving.  For the photographers out there, this photo is at 10:55 a.m.  As you can see, the shadows are still just extreme enough to make an interesting photo. 

One final thought before signing off for the day - The NPS has made a great e-Hike of this hike.  Check it out!

NPS Angel's Landing e-Hike